San Blas Reborn: New Islands Emerge Amidst Climate Change Hysteria

San Blas: A Reflection of Life’s Cycles—Loss and Rebirth

The San Blas archipelago, known for its stunning beauty and cultural richness, is witnessing a profound transformation driven by both the forces of nature and the resilience of the Guna people. As climate change alters the geography of this paradise, new islands are emerging, while existing ones face the threat of submersion. This dynamic evolution highlights the Guna community’s adaptability and determination to preserve their way of life in the face of environmental challenges.

San Blas: A timeless paradise where nature’s beauty and local culture blend seamlessly, following the natural cycles of life.

A New Island Emerges in San Blas

Off the coast of Maoqui in the Dutch Cays, a new island is gradually taking shape. What started as a mere speck of land, approximately 5 meters by 8 meters, has grown over the past decade to a remarkable 40 meters by 80 meters. This natural phenomenon of island formation in Guna Yala is not just a geological event; it carries significant cultural implications.

Maoqui Island in Dutch Cays, years ago, when the new island was in its early stages and barely visible. Notice the white sand patch on the right of the picture

The new island in its early stages 10 years ago, gradually growing in size.

The new island emerging and growing strong, right in front of Maoqui Island (visible in the background).

In the Guna tradition, when a new island forms, the first family to plant coconut trees on it typically claims the right to inhabit it once it becomes fully habitable. This process is neither quick nor straightforward—it can take years for the island to reach a stable size, where it is no longer submerged during high tides. On this newly emerging island, Jose's family, our longtime deckhand of our Mambo Diablo Salina 48 catamaran and dear Guna friend, has already planted between 30 and 40 coconut trees in neat rows, staking their claim to the land. However, they must remain vigilant, as the death of these trees could jeopardize their ownership.

Recently planted coconut trees by a family on Maoqui Island, who will eventually have the right to live there and utilize its resources. The Guna use coconuts and seafood for both sustenance and income.

The final decision on ownership, however, rests with the General Guna Congress. While the family continues to nurture their coconut trees, they must wait for the island to stabilize—a process that could take several more years. This careful stewardship reflects the Guna’s deep connection to their land and their ability to adapt to the slow but steady changes brought about by climate change.

Relocating from Cartí Sugdupu: A Community in Transition

While new islands are forming, other parts of San Blas face a more ominous reality. The island of Cartí Sugdupu, one of the 49 inhabited islands in the archipelago, is under threat from overcrowding. With its population exceeding 1,000 people, crammed into an area roughly the size of five football fields, the island’s future is uncertain.

Despite media narratives, the relocation of Cartí's inhabitants to the mainland is primarily due to overpopulation and the severe shortage of space on the island. There is no longer any room for the younger generation seeking to establish their homes. This is the indisputable reality, rather than the alarmist headlines circulated by some outlets. Furthermore, while it is true that some islands may eventually submerge in the distant future, new islands are simultaneously emerging, reflecting the ongoing natural cycle of change in San Blas.

Carti Sugdupu, San Blas.

The Panamanian government has acknowledged the urgent need to relocate the residents of Cartí Sugdupu. However, both the government and the media focus on the islands' potential to sink as the reason for their actions, while the underlying reality is one of overpopulation and a severe lack of space. The island, which stands 50 cm to 1 meter above sea level, is supposedly predicted to be submerged in the coming decades. In response to this projection, the government has initiated a relocation plan, moving the community to a new mainland settlement called Nuevo Cartí, or Isber Yala ("Tree of Níspero").

Having lived in Guna Yala for over 12 years, we can't help but question why Panamanian authorities have chosen to focus this relocation effort on a hypothetical scenario that may unfold decades from now, rather than on the urgent and irrefutable need to create new space to provide homes for younger families.

The relocation comes with significant challenges. Many Guna depend on fishing for their livelihood, and the new settlement, located 30 minutes from the sea, complicates their ability to maintain this crucial link to their traditional way of life. From our firsthand experience, having deep ties with the Guna community and working closely with them, we understand that this is a genuine concern. Although the situation is being managed with arrangements for fish delivery, the distance from their primary food source and income remains a serious issue.

The new community of Nuevo Cartí offers each family a 300 m² plot with a modern 49 m² home and includes a water well, electricity, a sports park, a rainwater drainage system, community parks, and the Congress House, along with the celebration center "Chicha House". These last two structures are the only ones built in the traditional Guna style with thatch and bamboo, while the family homes are modern.

Nuevo Cartí or "Isber Yala".

In our view, the newly constructed community could have been developed with greater sensitivity to the surrounding habitats by integrating traditional Guna housing methods, which have long utilized thatch and bamboo. This current approach is concerning as it diminishes an essential aspect of the Guna people’s cultural identity. Merely preserving the Congress House and the "Casa de la Chicha" to uphold Guna customs and traditions does not constitute a comprehensive or respectful solution. We hope that future relocation efforts will be conducted with greater consideration and respect for the rich heritage of this remarkable community that has persisted through the ages.

Side note: Cartí is not included in our itineraries unnless our guests request it. Instead, we visit the exclusive outer islands, including Bapurgana and other top destinations in San Blas.

Operation Dulup: Safeguarding Gardi Sugdub’s Future

The crisis in San Blas extends beyond Cartí Sugdupu. Gardi Sugdub, another island in the Cartí group, is facing a similar issue. The overpopulation on these islands has prompted the Panamanian government to initiate "Operation Dulup" (Lobster), a comprehensive plan to relocate the island’s residents to the mainland.

This initiative has already successfully relocated 1,350 individuals to Nuevo Cartí.

The Future of San Blas: A Balancing Act

The story of San Blas mirrors life itself—marked by both loss and renewal. As some islands face the threat of disappearing beneath the waves, new ones emerge, highlighting the natural cycles of life on our planet and offering hope for the future. The Guna people’s ability to adapt to these changes, while maintaining their cultural integrity, is a testament to their resilience.

As climate change continues to reshape the Caribbean, the experience of San Blas serves as a powerful reminder of the need for sustainable practices and the importance of preserving cultural identities. The emergence of new islands amidst the hysteria of climate change symbolizes not just the physical rebirth of land but the enduring and fantastic spirit of the Guna people.

In this evolving landscape, San Blas remains a unique and precious part of our world—a place where tradition meets change, and where the natural world continues to surprise and inspire us.